There's a shift that happens in the Hunter Valley around late April. The vineyards turn from green to gold and amber, the mornings carry a chill, and the impulse to reach for a big, warming glass of something starts to make a lot of sense. This is fortified wine season, and at Peter Drayton Wines in Pokolbin, we've been making them for a long time.
Muscat, Shiraz and Verdelho are three of the most distinctive bottles at the cellar door. They're not wines you gulp. They're wines you sip slowly after dinner, share over a cheese board, or pour a small glass of while the fire's going. If you've never explored fortified wine from the Hunter Valley, autumn is the perfect time to start.
What Is Fortified Wine?
Fortified wine starts life the same way as any other wine: grapes are crushed and fermented. The difference is that partway through fermentation, a neutral grape spirit is added. This raises the alcohol level (typically to around 18%) and stops the yeast from consuming all the sugar, which is why fortified wines tend to be sweeter and richer than table wines.
It's one of the oldest winemaking techniques in the world, originally used to preserve wine on long sea voyages. Port, Sherry and Muscat are all fortified styles. In the Hunter Valley, the warm climate and old vine fruit lend themselves particularly well to making rich, concentrated liqueur wines with real depth and character.
All three sit at 18% alcohol and come in 375mL bottles, the traditional half-bottle format for fortified wines. A little goes a long way.
Liqueur Shiraz
If you like full-bodied Hunter Valley Shiraz, this is its amplified cousin. With a dark ruby and purple hue, it showcases intense aromas of ripe blackberries, plums and dark cherries, complemented by hints of chocolate and spice.
The palate is full-bodied and smooth, with rich, sticky black fruit, mocha, and a slight hint of oak. The sweetness is balanced by soft tannins and a warming, velvety mouthfeel. The finish is long and indulgent, with lingering dark fruit and subtle spice notes.
Food pairing: Pour alongside dark chocolate, blue cheese, or a rich sticky date pudding. It also works surprisingly well with barbecued lamb, where the sweetness plays off the charred, smoky meat beautifully.
Liqueur Muscat
Muscat is one of Australia's great fortified styles, and this is a classic example. A rich, sweet fortified wine with raisined fruit, toffee and spice on the nose. It's the kind of wine that fills the room with perfume the moment you pour it.
Traditional Muscat is made from the Muscat à Petits Grains grape, one of the oldest known grape varieties, and the result is always intensely aromatic. Expect dried fruits, Christmas cake and that signature sticky sweetness, balanced by enough acidity to keep things lively.
Food pairing: This is a natural match for desserts: think crème brûlée, pecan pie, or a cheese course with aged cheddar and quince paste. At the cellar door, we also love it on its own as an after-dinner sipper.
Liqueur Verdelho
This one often surprises people. Verdelho is one of the Hunter Valley's signature white varieties, but as a fortified wine it takes on an entirely different personality.
Rich golden amber in colour, with intense aromas of ripe peach and apricot, plus hints of honey, caramel and creamy vanilla. The palate is smooth and luscious, with flavours of sticky fruits, toffee and a light spice, balanced by a refreshing acidity that provides structure. The finish is long and warming, leaving a lingering sensation of subtle oak influence.
Food pairing: Try it alongside a fruit tart, poached pears, or a nutty aged Gruyère. It's also excellent lightly chilled on a cool evening. The tropical fruit notes and honey sweetness make it incredibly moreish.
The Trio: Try All Three
Can't choose? The Trio of Liqueurs bundles all three bottles for $110, saving on buying them individually. It's also a great gift for anyone who appreciates something a bit different from the usual bottle of red or white.
A liqueur trio makes a particularly good winter gift. These wines are shelf-stable (no need to rush through them once opened) and they'll sit happily on a sideboard for months, ready for whenever the mood strikes.
How to Serve Fortified Wine
A few tips from the cellar door:
- Temperature matters. The Liqueur Shiraz is best at room temperature or very slightly cool. The Verdelho and Muscat both benefit from a light chill. Fifteen minutes in the fridge takes the edge off the sweetness and lets the fruit shine.
- Small pours. These are 18% wines with intense flavour. A 60 to 80mL pour is plenty. A port glass, a tulip, or even a small wine glass works well.
- They last. Unlike table wine, an opened bottle of fortified wine won't oxidise overnight. You can enjoy a glass now and come back to the bottle in a few weeks. The high alcohol and residual sugar act as natural preservatives.
Visit Us at the Cellar Door
If you're heading to the Hunter Valley this autumn, come taste the full fortified range at our cellar door at 694 Hermitage Road, Pokolbin. We're open Wednesday to Sunday, 10am to 4pm, and tasting is always welcome. The liqueurs are poured alongside our full range of wines, craft beers from IronBark Hill Brewing Co, and spirits from Wildstreak Distillery, all under one roof.
Pair your tasting with lunch at Wildstreak Pizzeria, or just pull up a chair in the courtyard and take your time. There's no rush.
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